Surf Mavericks: Update 2

At this point of the season, Mavericks seems a long way off. It isn’t breaking and likely won’t be for a while. Nonetheless, if I want to be prepared for next season, I have to stay focused now.

I had an MRI on my left shoulder and thankfully nothing is torn. I’m glad there are people that study this sort of thing, because when I look at the picture below I can’t tell what is going on. Heck, it took me a few seconds to even tell what perspective I was looking from. I’m on a regular PT routine now to get the shoulder back to 100% so that I can train without re-injuring it.

surfing-shoulder-MRI

On the breath holding side of things, I am making some progress. I set a new personal record of 2:39. I wasn’t planning on graphing out my progress here, but at the bequest of a co-worker who was disappointed that Mr. Data wasn’t making a graph – I was convinced otherwise.

Here is how I’m doing:

Feb-breath-holding

Hopefully the diminishing returns on training are still a ways off, I’d like to get close to 4 minutes before it starts getting hard to add seconds. Fun fact – the world record for breath holding is over 22 minutes.


Shoulder: No torn ligaments – on the path to recovery

Breath Holding: 2:39

Days to Go: 296

Surf Mavericks: Update 1

Last Sunday the Mavericks Invitational ran – which means tens of thousands of people pay attention to the break for a day. For most, the invitational and wave are so tightly bound that they don’t realize you can go there on other days.

I decided not to go on Sunday because the idea of watching a surf contest from a parking lot seemed a bit crazy. After a rogue wave washed up the beach a few years ago, new policy it that the beach and bluffs must be closed during the invitational for safety reasons. Policy ruins everything good.

About 16 hours later the wave was still breaking, and access to the beach was back open. I decided to go watch it for a bit.

mavericks-small

Like any good surfer, I got there just before sunrise. There was just enough swell that it was breaking, but it was right in front of the rocks so no one was out. This did give me a good chance to get to know what is under the water a bit. I watched the boils and got a good idea of where most of the rocks are – there are a lot more than  I thought.

greg-watching-mavericks

After a few hours, I drove up north to Ocean Beach, which was a solid double overhead. Wish I was in shape for that.


Shoulder: Working – but still not 100%

Breath Holding: 2:01

Days to Go: 342

Signing out – SurfScience.com

Today I announced my official departure from SurfScience.com. After three years I’ve handed the project off to my co-founder to keep working on as I focus on other things.

Building the largest resource for surfboard knowledge was an awesome project to work on. We built out a directory with over 1,500 surfboard model listings & 10K user reviews. We also implemented some really cool technology like an algorithm that matched surfers to surfboards that might serve them well based on body time, skill level and available wave conditions.

I learned a ton about product design, community building and marketing while working on this project. I wouldn’t trade the experience for anything.

Can’t wait to see what is next for SurfScience.com

Full post here: http://surfscience.wordpress.com/2012/05/16/see-you-in-the-lineup-greg-kroleski-signing-out/